Italian Pasta
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Amatriciana (also know as sugo all’amatriciana or sugo alla matriciana) is an Italian pasta sauce prepared with guanciale or pancetta and tomatoes. The dish is named after the town of Amatrice in northern Lazio, where it is thought to have been invented. Romans prefer to call it “alla Matriciana” due to Roman dialect’s tendency to clip initial vowels.
Some food historians claim that amatriciana sauce is derived from a dish named pasta alla gricia, made with pasta and a sauce made of guanciale and pieces of sausages sautéed with olive oil, seasoned with freshly ground black pepper, and served mixed with Pecorino Romano cheese. It is popular in all Central Italy but also identified with Rome. It was Amatrice where tomato was added to gricia (while the sausages were eliminated) and the sauce was formed (the restaurants in Amatrice still propose “Amatriciana bianca” and “rossa”, that is, without or with tomatoes).
There are many varieties of sugo all’amatriciana. In Amatrice, it is prepared without onions, which is not typical of standard recipes from outside the area. In contrast, some may prefer to add garlic or white wine, or replace black pepper with red pepper, though such practices are not accepted by purists. However, everyone agrees that cream should be avoided.
Although people of Amatrice are proud to be inventors of spaghetti all’amatriciana, the preferred type of pasta for this sauce elsewhere in Italy is usually bucatini (though the recipe in Il cucchiaio d’argento does use spaghetti). In Rome amatriciana sauce is also often used with rigatoni. It is mixed in a serving bowl with the pasta, and then Pecorino Romano is added and tossed thoroughly.
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